IF EVER a place reflected a certain style, the super-cool The Wild Rabbit at Kingham does.
Care and oodles of cash have obviously been lavished on this addition to Lady Carole Bamford’s food empire — a five-star ‘restaurant with rooms’ just a couple of miles down the road from her organic farm at Daylesford, with its shops, spa, cookery school and café.
Although launch publicity emphasised they are two separate businesses, The Wild Rabbit exhibits the same carefully crafted rustic beauty — a deceptively simple but achingly trendy formula that you know must have cost a fortune.
As with Daylesford, it is all very well done and absolutely stunning, from the beautiful ash wood furniture to the sweeping bar, artistically hung charcuterie, roaring log fires, real ale and comfy leather sofas.
It screams ‘country set’ and when we visited just a few weeks after The Wild Rabbit opened in September, it was already getting celebrity endorsement. Amanda Holden had been spotted dining the evening before.
Dating back to 1750, The Wild Rabbit has taken shape in what was The Tollgate Inn, and it is in good company, being just metres from the excellent Kingham Plough where Emily Watkins has a loyal following for her delicious food based on the season’s best produce.
The Wild Rabbit has been called ‘England’s poshest pub’, but I would not apply that tag. The surroundings are undeniably gorgeous, but it is not the least bit intimidating.
Our waitress was a friendly local girl who could not have been more helpful or chatty, the food beautifully presented and tasty — and I was delighted to find one of my favourites wines on the list.
Chateau Leoube rosé comes from a Côtes de Provence vineyard which is another string to the Daylesford bow, and it is a great all-rounder — fresh, characterful, and not at all sweet.
We could have lingered for ages in front of the crackling log fire in the bar, but hunger got the better of us and we were soon comfortably seated in the cavernous dining room, although I would have liked a little more space between us and the couple at the next table — a bit of a city-centre vibe going on here.
The glass roof lets in lots of natural light to enhance the wood-led decor, and you can people-watch to your heart’s content. We spied those of a hardier nature gathered round a log fire on the equally tasteful outside terrace.
Adam Caisley, former personal cook to the Bamford family, heads the food side — and you can watch him and his team getting creative in the open-plan kitchen.
The menu was short — infinitely preferable in my opinion — and a homage to the autumn season.
There had to be rabbit on there, of course, and it was a potted version served with a pickled vegetable salad as a starter.
Steve chose the cream of mushroom and truffle soup with a soft poached egg plopped in the middle — pungent, creamy and comforting — and accompanied by a mushroom brioche whirl. My starter came as two small dishes — one containing a perfectly seared scallop and the other a sizeable Cornish crab ravioli bathed in a mussel and saffron sauce. Absolutely delicious!
A lamb rack (my favourite) with sweetbreads (not my favourite) and girolles featured on the mains, plus poached brill with raisins and roasted cauliflower and a veggie beetroot orzo with charred leeks and toasted hazelnuts.
The Wild Rabbit supports British farmers, heritage breeds and artisan producers — and offers its steaks cooked in its traditional charcoal Josper oven, which adds incredible flavour, texture and juiciness.
Our neighbours at the next table were busily devouring the rib of beef, plenty for two at £58. There is a choice of sauces and two butters — bone marrow and horseradish, and anchovy, herb and shallot.
But it was roast pork loin, belly and cheek croquette which caught my eye, and it was a great choice. Pork can be difficult to get right — this was moist and tender.
Steve had the organic blade of beef and ox tongue pie — which looked fantastic. However, neither he or I liked the rather slimy texture of the ox tongue, but it was a fine pie nevertheless and came with truffle mash — yes, he was on truffle overload, but can you ever have enough?
I rounded off a very good meal with a light iced vanilla parfait surrounded by blackberries and apples, while Steve could not resist the dark chocolate mousse with tonka bean ice cream.
Pricewise, The Wild Rabbit is not a rip-off. Starters from £7.50, non-veggie mains from £19.50 and puddings £7. As well as sampling the food, you have to go just to wonder at the magical makeover that the Bamfords, owners of the JCB empire, have accomplished.
If you wanted to have a drink or two you could treat yourself to an overnight stay in one of the 12 bedrooms, all on a woodland theme with names such as The Hedgehog, The Deer and, of course, The Rabbit.
They are just as beautiful as the pub and restaurant with ash furniture and hand-made luxury beds. Traditional Cotswold stone walls have been uncovered and made a feature of, and bathrooms are filled with indulgent Bamford bath and body products.
The four rooms, accessed from the garden, are dog-friendly too. Prices are from £105 per night for a small double room for two people bed and breakfast.
The Wild Rabbit, Church Street, Kingham, call 01608 658389 or see thewildrabbit.co.uk
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